Le Chateaubriand

The Basque-born chef Aizpitarte has been called a revolutionary and is something of a celebrity these days.

Lunch is a simpler, more conventional affair than dinner ( 40 euro), which is when he really lets his imagination run riot. This is the kind of avant-garde cuisine that provokes involuntary gasps when it is placed before diners. Ingredients may come from over the world, but the dishes themselves are grounded in classid French techniques. The wine list is paricularly good.

It seems that the service can be a bit controversial.

Le Chateaubriand, 129, Av Parmentier, 75011 Paris, tel. 01 43 57 45 95, M° Goncourt

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