Aux Pipalottes Gourmandes
The few tables in this wonderful deli, near Montmartre, are beseiged at lunchtime. Get there early. 44 Rue Rochechouart, 75009
· Gourmet Shops of Paris by Pierre Rival and Christian Sarramon,
£19.95, published by Flammarion. To order a copy for £18.95 with free
UK p&p, call the Observer Book Service on 0870 836 0885