The Belgian fashionguru's Dries Van Noten, Ann Demeulemeester and Veronique Branquinho did charm Paris.
Dries Van Noten has shaken off the feeling of being a specialist refuge for anti-mainstream devotees. What Van Noten is showing—more streamlined shapes, longer lengths, loopy knits, furs, high heels—is a reflection of what he calls "dressing 'up,' but in a modern way." The impression of grace became poetically compelling.
Ann Demeulemeester is one of those people whose personal sense of indie cool goes to the bone, and never involves looking back or trying too hard. This fall her well-known black and white is mixed up with bright purple and "Hortensia" printing.
Veronique Branquinho goes back to the origin of the fabrics. What made her jackets and coats her own were their touchable fabrics—gray flannel, astrakhan-imprinted rabbit fur, and plaid mohair—not to mention her penchant for layering their matching straight and A-line skirts over skinny faux-leather leggings.